Living Room
How to Choose a Sectional
The right sectional comes down to three decisions: the overall size and shape your room can actually support, which side the chaise sits on, and how the configuration handles your household's traffic and seating needs. Get those three right and everything else — fabric, cushions, features — is just personal taste.
Last updated January 15, 2026
Start with room size and traffic flow
Before you fall in love with a specific style, map out the floor space. Sectionals are large, and a piece that looks proportional in a showroom can crowd a smaller living room at home. Measure the full footprint of the space where the sectional will sit, then subtract walkways, doorways, and any traffic path people need to cross to reach other parts of the room.
- Leave at least 30–36 inches of clearance for main walkways
- Leave 14–18 inches between the sofa and a coffee table
- Measure wall-to-wall on the actual wall the sectional will back up against, not just the room's overall dimensions
- Account for other fixed pieces — a media console, fireplace, or bay window — that limit where the sectional can go
Browse our living room collection with your measurements in hand; filtering by overall depth and length up front saves a lot of back-and-forth once you've picked a style you like.
Measuring the sectional itself
Sectionals are usually quoted by overall length and depth of the assembled piece, plus the depth of the chaise extension separately. Add the chaise depth to the main body depth to get the full footprint, and always measure the individual boxed sections against your doorways and hallways — a sectional that fits in the room can still fail to make it through the entryway if a section is too wide for a tight turn.
Chaise orientation: LAF vs. RAF
"Left-arm facing" and "right-arm facing" describe where the chaise sits, and they're determined from your point of view as you face the sectional from the main entry point of the room.
- Left-arm facing (LAF): the arm — and the chaise — is on your left as you face the sectional
- Right-arm facing (RAF): the arm — and the chaise — is on your right as you face the sectional
Facing the room correctly
Stand at the doorway you use most often to enter the living room and look toward the TV, fireplace, or window that anchors the space. Whichever side feels natural for the chaise to sit on from that vantage point is the orientation you want. It also helps to think about how people will walk around the piece — the chaise should extend toward a wall or corner, not into a main walkway.

Comparing configurations
L-shape
The most common configuration: a sofa run plus a chaise or corner unit set at a 90-degree angle. It fits well against two walls or floats in an open room, and works for most household sizes without dominating the space.
U-shape
Two chaise-style ends flank a center sofa run, creating a wraparound seating area that's ideal for media rooms and large families. It needs significantly more floor space than an L-shape, so measure carefully before committing.
Modular sectionals
Built from individual armless, corner, and chaise pieces that can be rearranged or expanded over time. Modular setups are the most flexible option if you move frequently, want to reconfigure the layout seasonally, or plan to add pieces later — check our entertainment collection for media consoles and layouts that pair well with a modular arrangement facing the TV.
Sleeper sectionals
A sectional with a pull-out mattress built into one section is a practical choice for a room that doubles as a guest space. Sleeper mechanisms add depth and weight, so double-check doorway clearance and the mattress thickness before buying.
Reclining sectionals
Power or manual reclining sections need extra clearance behind the seat — typically several inches minimum — so the backrest can tilt without hitting a wall. Confirm the manufacturer's minimum wall clearance before finalizing placement.
Small-space tactics
- Choose an armless loveseat paired with a single chaise instead of a full L-shape to save several feet of depth
- Look for a sectional with a removable, castered ottoman that can substitute for a chaise and be pulled away when you need floor space
- Pick a slim track arm or no-arm design instead of a wide rolled arm to reclaim a few inches on each end
- Consider a smaller-scale sectional built specifically for apartments, often sold with reduced overall depth and chaise length
- Check our close-out collection for compact configurations at reduced prices while inventory lasts
Fabric and comfort considerations
Sectionals see heavy daily use, so fabric durability matters as much as color and texture. Performance fabrics and tightly woven weaves hold up best to kids, pets, and everyday sitting, while leather offers easy wipe-down cleaning but can feel warm in sunny rooms. For a deeper comparison, see our guide to leather vs. fabric sofas.
- Higher-density foam cushions hold their shape longer under daily use than lower-density fillings
- Down-blend or fiber-wrapped cushions feel softer initially but need more regular fluffing to stay looking full
- Removable, zippered cushion covers make spot-cleaning and eventual reupholstering easier
- A tighter weave or performance-treated fabric resists spills and pet claws better than loose, textured weaves
Whatever fabric you choose, our upholstery care tips guide covers rotation, cleaning, and sun protection that will help any sectional look newer for longer.
Delivery and fit tips
Sectionals ship in multiple boxed sections that are joined together once they're in your home, which usually makes them easier to move through tight spaces than a one-piece sofa of the same size — but every section still has to clear your doorways, hallways, and any stair turns on its own.
- Measure every doorway, hallway width, and stairwell turn the sectional will pass through, not just the final room
- Note ceiling height near stair landings — a section tipped on its side to clear a turn needs vertical room too
- Confirm elevator interior dimensions in advance if you live in a multi-story building
- Tell your delivery team about any tight turns ahead of time so they can plan the route or bring extra hands
- Leave the sectional's final wall measurements handy on delivery day so pieces go straight into place
Need a hand?
Bring your room measurements to a showroom associate before you decide on a configuration.
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Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if a sectional will fit through my door?
Measure your narrowest doorway, hallway, and any stair turns, then compare those numbers to the individual piece dimensions (not the assembled sectional) since most sectionals ship in separate sections that are joined in the room. See our measuring guide for a full walkthrough.
Should I get a left-arm or right-arm facing chaise?
Stand where you'd normally enter the room and look toward the main focal point, like a TV or fireplace. If the chaise should be on your left as you face that focal point, choose left-arm facing (LAF); if it should be on your right, choose right-arm facing (RAF).
Is a modular sectional worth the extra cost?
Modular sectionals let you rearrange or add pieces later, which is useful if you move often or expect your room layout to change. If you're settled into a permanent layout, a fixed L-shape or U-shape sectional is typically a better value.
Can a sectional work in a small living room?
Yes — an armless loveseat-plus-chaise footprint, a corner-hugging L-shape, or a sectional with a removable ottoman in place of a chaise can all seat a family in a modest room without overwhelming the walk paths.
See it, sit on it, feel the difference.
Visit one of our six Maryland showrooms, or book a one-on-one appointment with a design associate.
